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#Vega little wonder banjo mandolin serial numbers serial number#
#Vega little wonder banjo mandolin serial numbers plus#

The serial number stamped on the wood dowel is repeated on the rim. Hagemann” was uncontrollably compelled to write his name, and again in pencil inside the rim at 7 o’clock, and a just a few first few letters on the wood dowel near the tensioner (we guess he got tired). Right where that sheath covers the end of the dowel a prior owner named “A. It has the standard Vega internal tensioner device holding the maple wooden dowel firmly to the underside of the heel, and the nickel-plated brass cube at the bottom. It has 28 brackets, shoes and nuts (the sign reads “no brackets and shoes, no service”) and, guess what, 28 screws and washers. It has a “rolled bead” of brass that acts as a small yet effective variation on a tone ring providing the instrument’s sound more punch and drive.

The Little Wonder is one of Vega’s prewar open-back models.

#Vega little wonder banjo mandolin serial numbers plus#

Celtic, U.K.#75120, in very good plus condition with worn original hard shell case.

Jazz/Blues Variants, Bossa, Choro, Klezmer.

Old-Time, Roots, Early Country, Cajun, Tex-Mex.

Rock, Folk Rock, Roots Rock, Rockabilly.

Bluegrass, Newgrass, Country, Gospel Variants.

Technique, Theory, Playing Tips and Tricks.

Jams, Workshops, Camps, Places To Meet Others.

Looking for Information About Mandolins.

Quick Navigation Looking for Information About Mandolins Top There is even an iPhone app (iDrumTune lite free, I think) that might help if you don't want to pony up for a drum dial guage. Check out Banjo Cafe and Banjo Hangout for lots of tips on stuff like tightening the head down. Luckily (and hopefully) you only have to do it once.Īll the above is how I do it, be it the best way or not. Getting the head tightened down evenly and to the "right" tension is B-O-R-I-N-G, but it is important. Too tight and you get a shrill tone and the bridge feet will look like they are sitting on a perfectly flat surface. Too loose and it will sound tubby and you will see the bridge feet noticeably depressed into the head. Head tightness is a variable that affects the character of the tone. When the tension is close to "right", tighten only a quarter turn on each nut. Check the head tension after each circle. Now go around the circle again, the same way (1,15,2,16, etc). Tighten #1 a half turn, then #15, then #2, then 16. I have 28 brackets on mine, so let's number them 1 - 28 (doesn't really matter where you start or which way you go, but I count #1 as right next to the highest string at the neck-body joint and count clockwise). Get all the brackets finger tight and then verify that the top of the tension ring is the same distance above the head all around. You do want to be careful about getting the head tightened down evenly. I was told a long time ago, "tighten the head until just before it busts". There is no rod in neck, so too tight would be bad.

My main thing is to keep existing nut, bridge, and intonation as it was intended for a FairBanks little wonder 8 string banjo. Tuning it like my standard bass guitar or guitar would be nice, but I bought a mandolin chord chart and using it would be nice too. I do not care what type of tuning is best. I'd like to try to play this banjo the way it was meant (and how the strings I bought were meant). Also, the intervals of mando strings I bought seem closer than standard mandolin tuning (so I am thinking 4ths or uke/guitar?). 024 is thickest and that is about the D on most standard mandolin light sets (GDAE). Anyone know how this banjo or the mando strings I bought should be tuned? I am guessing (Low to high) (DGCF) or (DGBE). Original strings are ~26" loop to end and scale appears ~13 ~ 14 inches depending on if bridge was where it was suppose to be. Just ordered a 10 1/8 7/16 FiberSkin Remo head and GHS GMB Extra Light Mando-Banjo Strings 008 010 018w 024s ( ). I have a ~1916 FairBanks Electric Little Wonder 8 string.